🔗 Share this article

Jack Martin

Colourist located in California who excels at platinum tones. Among his clientele are Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much stress a regular bath towel can do, especially to lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It safeguards your strands while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – featuring innovative technology, with smart temperature control. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

At-home lightening. Social media makes it look easy, but the truth is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with striped effects that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. These chemical systems are often too aggressive for already fragile strands and can cause lasting harm or discoloration.

Which typical blunder stands out?

People using the wrong products for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply colour-correcting purple shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks lifeless and muted. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown great results. They support the body from the inside out by correcting endocrine issues, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, blood-derived therapies – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

---

A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home every two weeks to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also now while experiencing some marked thinning after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Also, high-dose biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What blunder stands out often?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the main goal of cleansing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which options help with shedding?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus